Into the Heart of French Cheese: My Journey to the Mondial du Fromage

On the 19th of August, an unexpected email landed in my inbox:

“On behalf of the French Dairy Board, you are invited to join a free-of-charge, exclusive excursion into the heart of cheese heritage. Discover the core of the cheese scene at the renowned Mondial du Fromage in Tours. Taste, connect, and explore the future of dairy excellence – including the World’s Best Cheesemonger competition. You’ll also enjoy an authentic immersion into French cheese culture with a visit to a farm, offering a terroir experience to complement the trade show.”

For a small, independent business like ours here in Hunstanton, it felt like a once-in-a-lifetime invitation. My wife Rosie didn’t hesitate: “You’ve got to go!” So I said yes—and three weeks later I was on the Eurostar, heading to Paris for what turned out to be one of the most inspiring cheese adventures of my life.

First Stop: Paris & the World’s Biggest Food Market

Arriving at Gare du Nord on a Sunday evening, I joined a group of fellow British cheesemongers for dinner in a classic Parisian brasserie. The next morning, bleary-eyed but excited, we were on a coach by 5.45am heading to the Marché International de Rungis.

Now, Rungis isn’t just big—it’s enormous. Covering the same area as the entire principality of Monaco, this is the beating heart of France’s food supply. If you dine in a Parisian restaurant, chances are the ingredients passed through here that very morning.

The UK has Billingsgate (fish), Smithfield (meat), and New Covent Garden (fruit & veg). France has all of that in one place—plus something we don’t have: an entire wholesale cheese market.

Picture wheels of Comté, Gruyère, and Emmental the size of car tyres, stacked high, waiting to be shipped across Europe. For me, it was humbling to see the scale, and a reminder of just how central cheese is to French food culture.

Why the Invitation?

There’s also an important backstory to this trip. Since 2024, the UK placed a ban on importing certain raw-milk soft cheeses from France and Italy—Brie de Meaux, Morbier, Roquefort, Vacherin, and others—because of concerns around Lumpy Skin Disease (LSD), a cattle virus spread by flies and mosquitos.

To be clear: it’s not a human health issue. The ban is primarily aimed at protecting UK livestock. But it has meant that many of the most traditional French cheeses have been missing from British counters, including ours, for the last year.

The French Dairy Board wanted to show us—cheesemongers from across the UK—that these cheeses are still being made with the same passion and care. When the ban is lifted (perhaps in 2026), they’ll be ready to return.

The Mondial du Fromage in Tours

From Paris, we travelled two and a half hours south to the beautiful city of Tours—home of the Mondial du Fromage. Think of it as the Glastonbury of cheese: three days of tastings, workshops, competitions, and networking with some of the most influential names in the industry.

We spent the day tasting (a lot), meeting producers, and watching the early stages of the World’s Best Cheesemonger competition. and the winner was for the first time from the USA Emilia D’Albero from Formaticum in Philadelphia The judging was rigorous, blind, and international. When the results came in, it was Gruyère AOP that claimed the crown as the supreme champion cheese.

Surprising Pairings: Cheese, Chocolate & Spices

Day two offered something truly unique: a flavour pairing masterclass. We were in the company of Romain Le Gal not just a respected affineur, but a MOF (Meilleur Ouvrier de France). MOF is the highest honour a craftsperson can hold in France, awarded once every four years. Romain gave us board of eight cheeses and asked to find the perfect match first with different chocolates (from bitter 77% dark through to sweet white), and then with spices like chilli, smoked paprika, and caraway seeds.

The goal was always to let the cheese remain the star, while the pairing brought out new nuances. It was a fascinating exercise, and one I’d love to recreate back here in Norfolk—because who knew that a rich Brie could sing alongside dark chocolate?

From Sustainable Farms to Cheese Museums

Our final day took us beyond the trade show, starting at Ferme de la Tremblaye, a pioneering dairy farm producing cheese from 500 goats and 160 cows. They generate their own energy, recycle everything, and put animal welfare at the heart of their work. It was a powerful reminder that great cheese always begins with happy animals.

Later, in Paris, we visited the Musée du Fromage near Notre Dame. A small but beautifully curated museum, it showcased the history and craft of cheesemaking. We even tasted the same cheese at 48 hours old and again at three weeks matured—a striking demonstration of how age shapes flavour.

What This Means for The Norfolk Deli

Trips like this aren’t just about indulging (though I confess there was plenty of that!). They’re about learning, connecting, and bringing fresh ideas home.

At The Norfolk Deli, we’re proud of our cheese counter and its reputation as one of the very best in Norfolk. Being part of this trip means we’re now in direct contact with French producers, ready to import new and exciting cheeses when the UK ban is eventually lifted.

More importantly, it reminded me why I fell in love with cheesemongering in the first place: it’s about people, stories, and shared passion. And whether you’re in Paris or Hunstanton, that never changes.

Watch This Space

Over the months ahead, I’ll be sharing some of the lessons, pairings, and inspirations from this trip. And of course, our counter will continue to evolve, with new arrivals and old favourites side by side.

For now, though, I’ll leave you with this thought:
Happy animals make happy cheese, and happy cheese makes happy people.

And that, I think, is worth a Eurostar ticket.