When Is a Deli Not a Deli?

At some point, and we’re not entirely sure when or who started it, the word “deli” became a buzzword. A shorthand for “we sell food, and we’re probably a bit fancy too.” Coffee shops, lifestyle stores, brunch spots, even restaurants with a few jars of chutney near the till—everyone wants a slice of the deli pie.

But here’s the thing: calling yourself a deli doesn’t make you one.

We’re not against evolution. A true delicatessen can serve food. At The Norfolk Deli, we offer fresh, made-to-order sandwiches, quiches, sausage rolls, and salads. It makes sense to use the produce we stock and serve it in ways that reduce waste, keep things seasonal, and showcase local makers. That’s not selling out. That’s just smart, sustainable business.

But let’s be honest. How often have you walked into a so-called deli and found yourself in a what's a fully-fledged café or restaurant where there's a token shelf of oils and maybe a wedge or two of local cheeses hiding in the fridge? That’s not a deli. That’s branding.

So What Is a Real Deli?

To us, a proper delicatessen is a place where customers discover a cornucopia of exceptional cheeses, local charcuterie, and artisan goodies you can’t find in the supermarket. It’s a treasure trove of local, seasonal, small-batch food and drink. It’s run by people who know their producers by name, who can tell you where that chutney was made and why it pairs best with that particular blue cheese.

It’s about storytelling as much as it is about food.

Real delis are places of discovery. They’re where innovation happens. Many of the now-mainstream brands you see on supermarket shelves started life on the tables of farmers' markets or the shelves of a local deli. These are places where food gets its start, where trends begin, and where customers come not just to shop but to connect—to be surprised and inspired.

The Rise of the Faux-Deli

We’ve seen it time and again. A café decides to add a handful of “deli items” to the counter and rebrands itself as a delicatessen. Walkers (yes, that Walkers) even launched “deli-style” crisps—whatever that means. Why? Because the word “deli” still carries weight. It suggests quality. Craft. Care. So naturally, big brands and hospitality chains want a piece of that magic.

Businesses like Carluccio’s, for example. (Remember them?) Lovely place. Good food. But it arguably kicked off the trend of the “deli corner”—a few branded items by the till so they could use the word “deli” in the description. It’s clever marketing, but it’s not the reason anyone visited. And yet, it helped shift the public perception of what a deli is supposed to be. 

So, How Do You Spot a Real Deli?

Simple. Look for the people.

Is it owner-run? Are they there when you visit? Do they light up when you ask about their cheeses, their meats, their pickles and preserves? Do they know where every item came from—and better still, why it’s on their shelf? Do they care deeply about seasonality, provenance, and sustainability?

A good deli should feel like an Aladdin’s cave. The kind of place you can’t walk past without peeking in. The place where, after wandering the soulless supermarket aisles, you kick yourself and think, I should’ve come here first.

And we hear it all the time: “When are you going to open one of these near me?” or “This is the kind of shop I wish we had back home.”

The Future of Delis Depends on You

A great deli doesn’t just support local—it is local. It’s rooted in its community and proud to promote the makers and producers who put their heart into every jar, wedge, or bottle. But here’s the catch: delis can only survive if people support them. That goes for the indie producers they stock, too.

So don’t be fooled by slick branding or the illusion of quality. Not all delis are created equal. Seek out the real ones—the ones that champion local, that put food and its makers first, that offer something truly different. And when you find them, support them. Share them. Tell your friends.